During Ramadan, life in Iraq follows a distinct and familiar pattern. The long hours of fasting give way to evenings centred around iftar, when families and communities gather to share meals. Across cities and towns, this routine creates a sense of continuity and brings together people from all walks of life.
In this interview, we spoke with traveller Laura Isac about her experience spending Ramadan in Iraq. Moving between cities and staying with local families, she encountered a way of life shaped by generosity and openness.
Was this your first time fasting for Ramadan, and if so, can you describe your experience?
“I spent about two weeks in Iraq and actually arrived shortly before Ramadan began. I had even hoped to be there during this time because I knew the atmosphere would be very special, especially in the evenings,” she explains. Living with Iraqi families meant that fasting was a natural part of each day rather than an isolated experience. Each evening unfolded around iftar, where meals were shared generously and prepared with care. “During my stay I was living with locals, so every iftar I experienced was with Iraqi families. The food was incredible, delicious and very generous, with so many dishes on the table,” she recalls. Although Laura had fasted once before in Germany, this was her first time experiencing Ramadan consistently. “Out of respect for the people I was staying with, I fasted on most days as well,” she says, noting that on longer travel days she occasionally broke her fast, encouraged by those around her.
What stayed with Laura most was not the fasting itself but the hours leading up to it. Walking through the city in the late afternoon became a sensory experience shaped by anticipation. “The main challenge was walking through the city a few hours before iftar, when families were preparing food and the smell from the kitchens was everywhere. At that moment you really start looking forward to the evening meal.” One evening in Najaf captured this feeling most vividly. Near the shrine of Imam Ali, she encountered a large communal iftar where the boundaries between strangers quickly disappeared. “You might arrive there alone, but you never end up eating alone. Even though food was provided, many people also brought their own dishes and shared them with others. It created a beautiful sense of community and generosity.”
What was your favourite food you tried during your trip, and how would you describe it to someone who hasn’t tried Iraqi food before?
“One of the dishes I really loved was masgouf, the traditional grilled fish. I tried it in Nasiriyah and in the marshes, and it was absolutely delicious.” She later learned how closely the dish is tied to Baghdad and the Tigris River, where it is considered an essential part of the local experience.
Alongside these well-known dishes, it was often the simplest foods that left the strongest impression. “In two of the families I stayed with, they prepared the bread fresh for iftar, and it was amazing to eat it warm right out of the oven. It’s simple, but when it’s freshly made like that, it’s incredibly flavorful,” she says. A dessert from Najaf, however, stood apart from everything else she tried. “My absolute favourite was a traditional sweet from Najaf called Daheen Najaf. It has a soft, almost fudge-like texture that melts in your mouth and a rich, nutty flavour from the ghee and nuts on top, with a hint of cardamom. It was so delicious that I wished I could bring a big box of it home for my friends. Honestly, it’s one of the best sweets I’ve ever tasted.”
What aspects of Iraqi culture or hospitality surprised you the most?
Even before arriving in Iraq, Laura had been in contact with locals who helped her plan her journey, though the extent of the kindness she encountered in person was still unexpected. “Once I arrived, the level of hospitality truly blew me away and left me speechless,” she says. This generosity extended across every aspect of daily life, from families welcoming her into their homes to strangers offering small acts of kindness in passing moments. “Families who were complete strangers to me opened their homes, gave me a place to sleep, and shared their meals with me,” she explains, noting that, even outside the home, similar gestures were constant. “In shared taxis, people would offer me food they had with them, and whenever we stopped for a break, someone would invite me for tea.”
Laura was also struck by how instinctive these gestures felt. “I honestly think I never paid for tea during my time in Iraq. Either the vendor would refuse to take my money, or someone nearby would insist on treating me,” she says. Encounters on the street often followed the same pattern, beginning with simple questions and ending in offers to help. “Even on the street, people would approach me kindly, asking where I was from and whether I needed anything. It even happened a few times that people asked if I needed money or help with something.” Reflecting on these experiences, she describes a sense of reassurance that stayed with her long after the trip. “I often tell my friends that if I had to be dropped somewhere in the world with no money and no contacts, I would choose Iraq. You would never end up alone or abandoned. People would help you, make sure you have food, and make sure you have a place to stay.”
Iraq’s tourism economy has had a recent boost. In your opinion, what makes Iraq an appealing destination for travellers today?
Her journey, she explains, was partly motivated by a desire to move beyond dominant narratives. “I think it has often been misunderstood or portrayed in Western media as dangerous, partly because of its recent history. But when I travelled there, I wanted to show another side, the beauty, the heritage, and the warmth of the people.” What she encountered instead was a country where history is embedded in the landscape itself. “The country is home to some of the oldest civilisations in the world. I visited Babylon, explored the marshes, and saw the remarkable efforts to rebuild cities like Mosul after years of conflict. Everywhere you go, history is visible.”
The religious and cultural sites, particularly in Karbala and Najaf, added another layer to her experience. “I was especially moved by the mosques. Their architecture, energy, and beauty are awe-inspiring, and even if you are not Muslim, visiting these places leaves a strong impression,” she says. At the same time, she emphasises the accessibility of travel within the country. “You can join an organised tour and relax, or, if you are an experienced traveller, explore independently. In my opinion it is also very affordable, and I personally felt safe travelling as a solo female traveller.” Ultimately, it is not only the history or architecture that defines Iraq for her, but its people. “The hospitality and generosity I experienced everywhere made it very easy to feel at home.”
Was there an interaction during your trip which left a lasting impression?
Among many moments of kindness, one quieter encounter continues to stand out. “It is hard to choose just one interaction because I was deeply moved by many moments, but one experience that left a strong impression on me was staying with a local family,” she says. Despite a limited shared language, the connection felt immediate and sincere. “Even though we did not share much common language, we still connected through gestures, smiles, and shared moments.”
The impact of this encounter extended beyond the trip. “Even after I left, they sent messages expressing how meaningful my visit had been for them. That really moved me,” she recalls. “It made me realise that genuine human connection does not always need words. Sometimes kindness, gestures, and shared experiences are enough to create a bond that you will remember for a long time.”
If there was one thing you wish to tell or show the world about Iraq, what would it be and why?
“If I could tell the world one thing about Iraq, it is that it is a beautiful country with even more beautiful people,” Laura says, returning to the idea that runs throughout her experience. She describes a place shaped not only by its history but by the resilience of those who live there. “Despite the conflicts and difficult periods in the past, they have never lost their kindness and generosity.”
Even after two weeks of travel, Laura felt there was far more to discover. “It is a place that makes you want to return,” she says, noting that she felt safe throughout her journey, including as a solo, female traveller. Since returning home, she has shared her experiences online and observed a shift in how others perceive the country. “Many people told me they previously had a completely different impression of Iraq, but after seeing my experiences, some said they now feel inspired and curious.”
Laura hopes that this curiosity continues to grow. “I hope more people will discover this country and its incredible people for themselves.”
See more of Laura on her Instagram
- Published: 7th April, 2026
- Location: Baghdad
- Country: Iraq
- Editor: Ben McInerny
- Category: Tourism
